Top Stitch 101: What is topstitching and how to do it

Topstitching is a fundamental sewing technique that transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary. At its core, topstitching is a line of stitching that’s visible from the outside of a fabric project, often used to add strength, structure, and a touch of professional finesse.

A top stitch is the visible line of stitching on the outside of a garment or fabric project. It’s not just there to add beauty; it serves a purpose too. From reinforcing seams to providing structure, topstitching is like the secret sauce that gives your projects that extra ‘oomph’. You see it on everything – jeans, jackets, bags, you name it. And the best part? It’s not just for the pros. With the right tools and a bit of know-how, you can master this technique too.

Let’s get real though – topstitching is more than just a simple stitch along the edge. It’s a skillful blend of the right elements: the thread, the needle, the stitch length, and the tension all contribute significantly to the final look. Like many sewing techniques, it does require some practice to get it just rightBut don’t worry, I’ve got your back. We’re going to dive into the nitty-gritty of topstitching, from choosing your thread to handling those tricky corners.

For topstitching, you’ll need a few key items to ensure your stitches are neat, durable, and professional-looking. Here’s a rundown of the essentials:

1. Topstitching Thread: Choose a thread thicker than standard sewing thread for a prominent look.
2. Appropriate Needle: Use a topstitching or denim needle, which has a larger eye for thicker thread and a sharp point for heavy fabrics.
3. Sewing Machine: A machine that can handle thick threads and fabrics.
4. Presser Foot: An edge-stitching or blind-hem foot can improve visibility and accuracy.
5. Stitch Length Adjustment: The ability to adjust stitch length is important for achieving the right topstitch appearance.
6. Fabric Scraps: Use these for practice before working on your main project.
7. Seam Guides or Tape: These help in maintaining straight stitching lines.
8. Iron: For pressing seams flat before topstitching. A mini iron will do just fine.

When you’re gearing up for some top-notch topstitching, think of your needle like the trusty sidekick in your sewing adventure. You wouldn’t climb a mountain without the right gear, right? Same goes for tackling topstitching.

First off, you’ve got your Topstitching Needles. These guys are the superheroes of the needle world when it comes to topstitching. They come with a larger eye, which is perfect for thicker threads – kind of like having a bigger basket for carrying more groceries. This means less fraying and breakage of your thread. They also have a sharp point and a deeper groove running down the front, which makes them glide through fabric like a hot knife through butter.

Then there’s the Denim or Jeans Needle. If you’re working with tough fabrics like denim, this needle is your best bud. It’s strong, sharp, and can handle those thicker materials without throwing a tantrum (i.e., skipping stitches or breaking).

And for the finer things, like lightweight or super dense fabrics, the Microtex or Sharp Needle steps in. These are the precision artists, making sure your topstitching is as neat and tidy as a pin.

Why fuss over the needle, you ask? Well, imagine using a sledgehammer to crack a nut – not the best idea, right? Same with sewing. The right needle ensures your thread doesn’t throw a fit (break or fray), your fabric feels respected (no unnecessary holes or damage), and your stitches look on point.

When it comes to topstitching, your sewing machine is your main tool, so it’s important to understand the settings and adjustments needed for optimal results.

1. Stitch Length: For topstitching, a longer stitch length is generally better. It makes the stitches stand out and gives a professional appearance. A setting between 3 and 4 usually works well, but this can vary depending on the fabric and thread thickness.
2. Tension: Getting the tension right is crucial. The goal is to ensure that the stitch looks consistent on both sides of the fabric. This might require some adjustments, especially if you’re using a thicker topstitching thread. It’s always a good idea to test on a scrap piece of your project fabric to find the right tension setting.
3. Speed Control: A steady, moderate sewing speed gives you more control over your stitching, helping you achieve straighter, more precise topstitches.

The presser foot you choose can greatly influence the ease and quality of your topstitching.

1. Edge Stitching Foot: This foot is designed to help you stitch close to the edges or seams. It’s great for achieving straight lines as it guides the fabric through evenly.
2. Blind Hem Foot: Surprisingly useful for topstitching, this foot has a guide that helps maintain a consistent distance from the edge, ensuring straight lines.
3. Regular Presser Foot: Even a standard presser foot can work for topstitching, especially if you use a guideline like a piece of tape on the fabric as a stitch marker.

The right settings on your sewing machine, combined with a suitable presser foot, can significantly enhance your topstitching quality, giving your projects a clean and professional finish.

Topstitching thread plays a crucial role in the art of sewing, especially when it comes to adding those perfect, eye-catching details to your projects. Unlike regular sewing thread, topstitching thread is designed to be seen and to stand out. It’s thicker and stronger, making it ideal for creating prominent, durable stitches that can add both a decorative and functional touch to your garments or fabric items.

One of the key differences between topstitching thread and regular sewing thread is its thickness. This quality not only makes the stitches more visible and pronounced but also adds to the overall strength of the stitching, making it perfect for areas that endure more wear and tear, such as the seams on jeans or edges of bags. This thickness, however, means that you’ll need to use a needle with a larger eye, such as a topstitching or denim needle, to accommodate the thread and prevent it from fraying or breaking.

Topstitching thread is available in a variety of materials, including polyester and cotton. Polyester threads are known for their durability and resistance to fading, making them a great choice for projects that will undergo frequent washing or exposure to the elements. Cotton topstitching threads, on the other hand, offer a softer finish and are often preferred in quilting and for projects where a more natural look is desired.

Topstitching, when done right, not only adds a visual flair to your sewing projects but also reinforces seams for durability. Here’s how to master this technique:

1. Practice on Scraps: Before you start on your actual project, practice on fabric scraps to perfect your tension and stitch length.
2. Guided Sewing: Use an edge stitching foot or a quarter inch seam foot for consistent seam allowance. These feet help keep your topstitch straight and evenly spaced from the fabric edge.
3. Starting the Stitch: Avoid backstitching at the start. Instead, leave a thread tail, which you can later tie off and trim.
4. Stitching: Sew slowly for precision, ensuring you maintain an even distance from the edge. For multiple rows of topstitching, stitch all seams in the same direction to avoid puckering.

Handling Corners and Curves

1. Corners: When approaching a corner, reduce your sewing speed. Stitch right up to the corner, ensuring the needle is down in the fabric. Lift the foot, pivot the fabric, lower the foot, and continue sewing along the new direction.
2. Curves: For smooth curves, slightly reduce the stitch length. Guide the fabric gently without pulling or pushing to avoid distortion.

For some life-saving tips for getting a grip on topstitching, her is a delightful video by Mary from The Daily Sew:

Finishing Touches

1. Ending the Stitch: Like the start, avoid backstitching at the end. Pull threads to the backside and tie off.
2. Pressing: After topstitching, press your work. This helps set the stitches and gives your project a professional finish.

By following these steps and tips, you can achieve clean, professional-looking topstitching that adds both beauty and function to your sewing projects. Remember, the key to perfect topstitching is practice and patience.

Finishing a topstitch neatly is crucial for the overall appearance of your sewing project. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to finish a topstitch:

1. Approach the End Slowly: As you near the end of the area you are topstitching, reduce your sewing speed. This gives you more control over the precision of your final stitches.
2. No Backstitching: In topstitching, backstitching at the end can create bulk and is generally not used. Instead, leave a thread tail of about 3-4 inches.
3. Pull Threads to the Back: Carefully pull both the top and bobbin threads to the backside (wrong side) of the fabric. This may involve gently tugging the fabric at the last stitch to bring the loop of the bobbin thread to the surface, then pulling it through with a pin or needle.
4. Knot the Threads: Once you have both threads on the backside, tie them together in a secure knot. This prevents the stitching from unraveling. Make sure the knot is close to the fabric to maintain tension but not so tight that it puckers the fabric.
5. Trim the Excess: After securing the knot, trim the excess thread tails close to the knot. Be careful not to cut too close, which could cause the knot to unravel.
6. Press the Stitching: Finally, use an iron to press the stitched area. This helps set the stitches and gives your project a crisp, professional finish.

Topstitching isn’t a one-size-fits-all kind of deal. Different fabrics call for different approaches. Here’s how to tailor your topstitching technique to suit various types of materials.

Lightweight Fabrics

1. Gentle Approach: With fabrics like chiffon or silk, go for a finer thread and needle. Think ballroom dancing – delicate and precise.
2. Reduced Tension: Avoid puckering by lowering the tension on your machine.
3. Shorter Stitches: A slightly shorter stitch length can prevent gathering and provide a neater finish.

Medium-Weight Fabrics

1. Standard Settings: Your regular all-purpose thread and a universal needle usually do the trick here.
2. Balanced Tension: Keep the tension normal, but as always, do a test run to ensure it looks good.
3. Experiment with Length: Play around with stitch lengths between 3.0 to 3.5 mm to see what complements the fabric best.

Heavyweight Fabrics

1. Strength Matters: Dive in with a heavier thread (like topstitching thread) and a sturdier needle (like a denim or topstitching needle).
2. Increased Tension: Thicker fabrics might need a bit more tension, but watch out for puckering.
3. Long and Strong: Go for longer stitches – they stand out more on heavy fabrics and add to the durability.

Stretchy Fabrics

1. Elastic Tactics: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle to prevent skipped stitches.
2. Flexible Stitches: Consider using a slight zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch to allow the topstitching to stretch with the fabric.
3. No Straining: Don’t pull the fabric while sewing; let the feed dogs do their job.

Hemming knit or stretchy fabric is generally better accomplished with a coverstitch machine. The coverstitch creates a professional-looking hem that is stretchable, which is particularly important for sleeves as they often need to stretch over hands and wrists without breaking the stitches.

Denim and Other Thick Fabrics

1. Heavy Duty: Strong thread, a sharp, strong needle, and a longer stitch length are your best friends.
2. Layer Leverage: When sewing over thick seams (like in jeans), use a hump jumper or a thick folded fabric to level the presser foot.

Universal Tips for All Fabrics

1. Consistent Quality: Regardless of the fabric, always test your stitch on a scrap before you begin.
2. Pressure Adjustments: Adjust the presser foot pressure if your machine allows it, especially for very thin or thick fabrics.

By adapting your topstitching technique to the specific needs of different fabrics, you can achieve a flawless finish every time. Whether you’re working with the sheer elegance of lightweight fabrics or the rugged charm of denim, the right approach makes all the difference.

Q: What is the best thread for topstitching?

A: The best thread depends on your fabric. Use all-purpose thread for light to medium-weight fabrics and heavier topstitching thread for thick, heavy fabrics like denim.

Q: Can I topstitch with a regular sewing needle?

A: Yes, but for optimal results, especially with thicker threads, use a topstitching or denim needle. These have larger eyes and sharper points, ideal for topstitching.

Q: Can I topstitch by hand?

Yes, you can topstitch by hand. Hand topstitching is often used for achieving a unique, crafted look or for projects where machine sewing is impractical. It requires a bit more time and patience, but it allows for greater control and a personalized touch to your sewing projects.

Q: How do I prevent my topstitching from puckering?

A: Prevent puckering by adjusting the tension on your sewing machine and choosing the right stitch length. Test on a scrap first, and ensure your fabric isn’t being pulled while sewing.

Q: How do I topstitch on stretchy fabrics?

A: Use a stretch or ballpoint needle, and consider a slight zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch. Avoid pulling the fabric; let the feed dogs guide it.

Q: Can topstitching be used as a decorative element?

A: Absolutely! Topstitching can be highly decorative, especially when using contrasting thread colors or unique stitch patterns.

Q: How do I fix a mistake in topstitching?

A: Carefully use a seam ripper to remove the erroneous stitches. Realign the fabric and re-sew, ensuring settings are adjusted if the mistake was due to tension or stitch length issues.

And there you have it, my sewing superstars – the ins and outs, ups and downs of topstitching. It’s more than just a stitch; it’s like adding that final sprinkle of glitter to your project. It’s the cherry on top, the icing on the cake, the… well, you get the picture.

Topstitching is your secret weapon for giving your creations that extra zing of professionalism and durability. Whether you’re jazzing up a pair of jeans or giving a tote bag that “wow” factor, remember: your topstitch is your signature.

But let’s not forget the golden rule – practice makes perfect. Every stitch you sew, every corner you navigate, and every curve you master takes you one step closer to being the topstitching champ you were born to be.

For more tips, tricks, and sewing wisdom, don’t forget to check out resources like Sew Daily​​, The Last Stitch​​, and TheGoodsDesign​​. They’re like the wise sages of the sewing world, always there to guide you on your stitching journey.

So, keep that needle threading, and don’t be afraid to let your personality shine through in every stitch. Whether by machine or by hand, remember, each piece you sew is a story you’re telling. Happy stitching, folks!